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TEXTILE
TERMS
& DEFINITIONS
(Section
4)
- Art
Linen
Fibre
Linen.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is woven with even threads that
are especially good for embroidery. It is very easy to "draw"
the yarns for drawn thread work. Comes bleached, or coloured.
Has a soft finish.
Uses: All kinds of needlework, lunch cloths, serviettes,
etc.
- Canvas
Fibre Linen, cotton.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Mostly rugged, heavy material made
from plyed yarns. Has body and strength. It is usually manufactured
in the grey state but some is dyed for different uses. Almost
the same as duck in heavier weights. Has an even weave. Ada
or Java canvas ussed for yarn, needlework, almost like mesh.
Uses: Tents, sails, mail bags, sacks, covers, etc.
Finer types used for embroidery and paintings. Hair canvas
is an interfacing material in various weights.
- Crash
Fibre Linen.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is very rugged and substantial
in feel. Come in white or natural shades or could be dyed,
printed, striped, or checked. The yarn is sstrong, irregular
in diametre but smooth. Has a fairly good texture.
Uses: Towelling, suitings, dresses, coats.
- Damask
Fibre Linen, silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, wool,
worsteds.
Weave: Figured on Jacquard loom.
Characteristics: Originally made of silk, that came
to us from China via Damascus. In the XIII Century, Marco
Polo gave an interesting tale about it. It is one of the oldest
and most popular cloths to be found today. Very elaborate
designs are possible. Cloth is beetled, calendared and the
better qualities are gross-bleached. Very durable. reversible
fabric. Sheds dirt. The firmer the texture, the better the
quality. Launders well and holds a high lustre - particularly
in linen.
- Price range varies a great deal. There are two types of
damask table cloths:
1) Single damask table cloths: construction. Thread count
is usually around 200.
2) Double damask has an 8 shaft satin construction with usually
twice as many filling yarns as warp yarns. This gives a much
greater distinctness to the pattern. Thread count ranges from
165 to 400.
- The quality of both depends on the yarn used and the thread
count. - If the same quality and thread count are used, single
is better than double because the shorter floats are more
serviceable and the yarns hold more firmly. Double damask
with less than 180 thread count is no good for home use.
- Huckaback
Fibre Linen, cotton.
Weave: Dobby or basket.
Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the surface
finish but finer, shinier than cotton huckaback. Has variation
in weaves but most have small squares on the surface that
stand out from the background. Comes in white, colours, or
coloured borders. Also stripes. The motif is made from a series
of floats, some of them rather long, which gives a loose effect
in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as a good absorbing
agency.
Uses: Mostly used for towelling.
- Simulated
Linen Fabrics
Various rayons, cottons, synthetics, and blends are woven
with threads of uneven thickness to simulate linen. They lack
the cool, firm, yet soft feel of linen. Their irregularities
are too even when seen beside real linen.
- Jute
and Burlap
Jute is used in textiles for interiors, especially for
wall hangings and a group of bright, homespun-effect draperies
and wall coverings. Natural jute has a yellow to brown or
gray colour, with a silky luster. It consists of bundles of
fibre held together by gummy substances that are pectinaceous
in character. It is difficult to bleach completely, so many
fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown in colour. Jute
reacts to chemicals in the same way as do cotton and flax.
It has a good resistance to microorganisms and insects. Moisture
increases the speed of deterioration but dry jute will last
for a very long time. Jute works well for bagging, because
it does not extend and is somewhat rough and coarse. This
tends to keep stacks of bags in positin and resist slippage.
It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and carpets
for backing or base fabric.
- Hemp
Hemp is a bast fibre that was probably used first in Asia.
The fibre is dark tan or brown and is difficult to bleach,
but it can be dyed bright and dark colours. The hemp fibres
vary widely in length, depending upon their ultimate use.
Industrial fibres may be several inches long, while fibres
used for domestic textiles are about 3/4 inch to 1 inch (1.9
to 2.54 cm) long. The elongation (1 to 6 percent) is low and
its elasticity poor. The thermal reactions of hemp and the
effect of sunlight are the same as for cotton. Hemp is moth
resistant, but it is not impervious to mildew. Coarse hemp
fibres and yarns are woven into cordage, rope, sacking and
heavy-duty tarpaulins. In Italy, fine hemp fibres are used
for interior design and apparel fabrics.
- Sisal
Sisal is one of a group of fibres obtained from the leaves
of plants. It is obtained from a plant that belongs to the
Agave family and is raised in Mexico, especially in the Yucatan
peninsula. The fibre is also cultivated in Africa, Jva, and
some areas of South America. Sisal can be dyed bright colours,
by means of both cotton dyes and acid dyes normally used for
wool. It is important in the manufacture of such items as
matting, rough handbags, ropes and cordage and carpeting.
- Ramie
Ramie is a natural woody fibre resembling flax. Also know
as rhea and China grass, it is obtained from a tall shrub
grown in South-east Asia. China, Japan, and southern Europe.
The fibre is stiff, more brittle than linen, and highly lustrous.
It can be bleached to extreme whiteness. Ramie fibres are
long and very fine. They are white and lustrous and almost
silklike in appearance. The strength of ramie is excellent
and varies from 5.3 to 7.4 grams per denier. Elastic recovery
is low and elongation is poor. Ramie lends itsef to general
processing for textile yarns, but its retting operation is
difficult and costly, making the fibre unprofitable for general
use. When combed, ramie is half the density of linen, but
much stronger, coarser, and more absorbent. It has permanent
luster and good affinity for dyes; it is affected little by
moisture. Ramie is used as filling yarn in mixed woolen fabrics,
as adulteration with silk fibres, and as a substitute for
flax. The China-grass cloth use by the Chinese is made of
Ramie. This fibre is also useful for rope, twine, and nets.
Haren
Textiles Pvt. Ltd.
Western Express Highway, Before Toll Naka,Dahisar (E),
Bombay-400068
India.
Ph: 91-22-28966764/4390/1894/5804 Fax: 91-22-28965707
Email: harentextiles@vsnl.com
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