TEXTILE TERMS & DEFINITIONS
(Section 3)

 

  • Alpaca
    Fibre: True alpaca is a hair fibre form the Alpaca animal, a mamber of the Ilama family of the South American Andes Mountains. Also imitated in wool, wool and alpaca, rayon, mohair and rayon or cotton and a cotton warp and alpaca filling also synthetics - e.g. orlon.
    Weave: Various weaves, knits, and weights.
    Characteristics: Fine, silk-like, soft, light weight and warm. Has much lustre and aresembles mohair. If guard hairs are used it is inclined to be boardy. It is strong and durable. True alpaca is expensive so often combined with othe fibres or imitated by other fibres - e.g. orlon.
    Uses: Men's and Women's suits, coats and sportswear, linings and sweaters. Some fine alpaca used for women's dresses. Also in pile or napped fabric for coating.
  • Angora
    Fibre: Hair from the angora rabbit. Often blended and mixed with wool to lower the price of the finished article or to obtain fancy or novelty effects.
    Weave: Various weaves adn knitted.
    Characteristics: Very fine, light weight, extremely warm and fluffy. Has a tendency to shed and mat with time. Must be designated as angora rabbit's hair.
    Uses: USed mostly in knit wear - gloves, scarves, sweaters, etc. for children and women. Also blended with wool in dress goods and suits to give a softer feel.
  • Astrakhan
    Fibre: Wool. Sometimes made with a mohair warp to add lustre and curl to the surface. Poor grades often have cotton warp or back.
    Fur: Luxuriant fur, curly and wavy. Most popular shade is brown. It is a caracul lambskin form the Astrakhan section of Russia.
    Weave: Good grades woven with a pile weave and cut. Cheap grades are knitted.
    Characteristics: Resembles astrakhan fur. Deep pile with curled loops. Durable and warm.
    Uses: Coats, cloaks, trimmings and accessories.
  • Barathea
    Fibre: Worsted, silk, rayon or silk or rayon warp combined with cotton or wool.
    Weave: An indistinct twill, plain or novelty. Usually a twilled hopsack weave.
    Characteristics: Fine textured, slightly pebbled surface. Appears to be cut off-grain. Very hard wearing. English in origin and originally made as a mourning cloth. It is still often dyed black.
    Uses: Women's suits and coats, men's evening wear, dress goods in light fibres. Also used in silk for cravat cloth and after five wear.
  • Beaver Cloth
    Fibre: Wool. Also sotton and napped on both sides - double faced.
    Weave: Twill and very heavily napped, and fulled.
    Characteristics: Originally English. Made to simulate beaver fur. Thick, gives excellent wear and very warm - resembles kersey. Length of nap varies with the cloth and its uses. Has a luxurious look. Has the longest nap of all the napped fabrics and usually usually somewhat silky. Often light coloured fibres added to nap to increase shine.
    Uses: Mostly used for warm coats. Cotton beaver is used for caps, shoe linings, work cloths, Maritime clothes and sports clothes where work is required.
  • Bedford Cord
    Fibre: Wool or worsted but worsted is more popular. Also made in cotton, silk and rayon.
    Weave: Lengthwise rib. Sometimes the ribs are emphasized by stuffing.
    Characteristics: Both Bedford, England and New Bedford, Mass. claim the name. Very pronounced rib. Very firm construction. Takes much hard wear. Has various qualities and weights.
    Uses: Suitings, coatings, riding breeches, uniforms and upholstery.
  • Birdseye
    Fibre: Worsted.
    Weave: Usually dobby.
    Characteristics: Smooth, clear finish. Has small diamond-shaped figures with a dot in the centre of each. Pattern suggests the eye of a bird.
    Uses: Fine quality suiting for men and women.
  • Blanket Cloth
    Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, blends, synthetics.
    Weave: Plain or twill.
    Characteristics: Soft, raised finish, "nap" obtained by passing the fabric over a series of rollers covered with fine wire or teasels. Heavily napped and fulled on both sides. Nap lose and may pill in laundering. Named in honor of Thomas Blanket (Blanquette), a Flemish weaver who lived in Bristol, England in the XIV century, and was the first to use this material for sleeping to keep warm.
    Uses: Bed covering, overcoats, robes.
  • Bolivia (Elysian)
    Fibre: Wool. Sometimes contians alpaca or mohair.
    Weave: Twill- usually 3 up and 3 down. A pile weave (cut) with a diagonal pattern.
    Characteristics: Pile face which varies in depth. Soft and has a velvety feel. Usually piece dyed. Usually has lines or ridges in the warp or in a diagonal direction on one side. Comes in light, medium and heavy weights.
    Uses: Cloakings and coatings and some suits.
  • Bombazine
    Fibre: Usually has silk or rayon warp and worsted filling. Imitations are made in cotton.
    Weave: Plain or twill.
    Characteristics: Very fine English fabric. Name comes from Latin "bombycinum" which means a silk in texture. It is one of the oldest materials known and was originally all-silk.
    Uses: Infants wear. When dyed black it is used in the mourning cloth trade.
  • Boucle
    Fibre: Wool, also in rayon, silk, cotton, linen, blends, hair fibres.
    Weave: Any weave, knit.
    Characteristics: From the French for "buckled" or "ringed". A drawn out or ringed, looped yarn is used to give it a kinky appearance at intervals. Made in a variety of weights. Boucle yarns are usually in both the filling and the warp. Fabrics are usually springy to handle on account of the highly twisted yarns used to achieve the boucle effect. Often ravels easily.
    Uses: Coats, suits, dresses, sportswear.
  • Broadcloth
    Fibre: Wool. Also cotton and silk but very different from wool broadcloth.
    Weave: Usually a twill with a two up and one down construction. Some also in the plain weave.
    Characteristics: Has a napped face, closely sheared and polished, producing a silky gloss - in same group of fabrics as kersey, beaver cloth, melton. One way nap, must be handled like velvet when cutting. It comes in a variety of colours and weights. It is "dressy" fabric and must be handled with care - form fitting and drapes well.
  • Camel Hair
    Fibre: Hair from the camel. Sometimes blended with wool or imitated in wool.
    Weave: Twill or plain.
    Characteristics: Underhair is best. It is light weight, lustrous and soft. It ranges from a light tan to a brownish-black colour. Usually left its natural tones but can be dyed-usually navy and some red. It has quite a long nap and is warm. Better grades are expensive. Sometimes blended with wool to reduce the cost and increase the wear. All wool camel hair is not as lustrous and is spongy. Can have either a rich nap or a flat finish. Wears fairly well, particuarly if blended.
    Uses: Coats, women's suits, sports coats, sweaters, some blankets and put in some very expensive oriental rugs.
  • Cashmere (Kashmir)
    Fibre: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fibre found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, and South west China. Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear.
    Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits.
    Characteristics: Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silken. More like wool than any othe hair fibre. Has a very soft silky finish; very light in weight. Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. True colour is brownish, but can be dyed any shade. Comes in different weights.
    Uses: Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's dresses.
  • Cavalry Twill
    Fibre: Woolen or worsted.
    Weave: 63 twill weave - right hand twill.
    Characteristics: Pronounced narrow and wide wale, in groups of 2. Strong rugged cloth. Quite elastic. Similar to U.S. elastique but elastique is smoother in rib, feel and effect, - (made of worsted yarn and a firmer weave). Also resembles tricotine but tricotine is much finer with a double diagonal.
    Uses: Riding habits, ski wear, sportswear, and uniform fabrics.
  • Challis (Chalys)
    Fibre: Wool-also made in cotton, hair fibre, rayon, and a silk warp and worsted filling.
    Weave: Plain
    Characteristics: Anglo-Indian word "Shallee" meaning soft. Soft, very lightweight. May be dyed or printed with a delicate floral pattern, paisleys, or geometric patterns and faint designs. Often washable. Originated in Norwich England in 1832.
    Uses: Women's and children's dresses and blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined.
  • Cheviot
    Fibre: Wool originally and mostly made from wool from the Cheviot sheep but today also made of blends, spun synthetics, crossbred and reused wools.
    Weave: Twill (modern version sometimes plain).
    Characteristics: Very rugged, harsh, uneven surface that does not hold a crese and sags with wear. Resembles serge but is much more rugged and coarse and will not shine because of the rough surface. Often sold as a homespun but true homespun has a plain weave and very heavy. Also sold as a tweed.
    Uses: Coats, suits, sportswear, sport's coats.
  • Chinchilla
    Fibre: Wool - also made in cotton, and some manmade and synthetics.
    Weave: Sateen or twill construction with extra fillings for long floats.
    Characteristics: Does not resemble true chinchilla fur. Has small nubs on the surface of the fabric which are made by the chincilla machine. It attacks the face and causes the long floats to be worked into nubs and balls. Cotton warp is often used because it cannot show from either side. Made in medium and heavy weights. Very warm and cozy fabrics. Takes its name from Chinchilla Spain where it was invented.
    Uses: In wool, for coats. Dark shades in wool are most popular, particularly navy and black.
  • Covert
    Fibre: Woolen or worsted, also cotton and spun rayon.
    Weave: Twill
    Characteristics: Made with two shades of colour e.g. (Medium and light brown). The warp is 2 ply (1 light; 1 dark) adn filling 1 ply (dark or same as warp). Very rugged and closely woven. Has a mottled or speckled effect. First used as a hunting fabric. Has a clear finish and hard texture. Wears exceptionally well and has a smart appearance. Light in weight.
    Uses: For overcoating for both men and women. It is also made waterproof and used a great deal in rain water.
  • Crepe
    Fibre: Woolen, worsted cotton, silk, man-made synthetics.
    Weave: Mostly plain, but various weaves.
    Characteristics: Has a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness. Dull with a harch dry feel. Woolen crepes are softer than worsted. If it is fine, it drapes well. Has very good wearing qualities. Has a very slimming effect.
    Uses: Depending on weight, it is used for dresses of all types, including long dinner dresses, suits, and coats.
  • Doeskin
    Fibre: Wool and also rayon.
    Weave: A 5 or 8 harness satin weave.
    Rayon: Twill weave and napped on one side, or a small satin-weave.
    Characteristics: Very smooth, lustrous surface made with a slight short nap very close and compact weave to look like fine leather. Weave not visible because of napping. Very high quality wool used. Needs care in handling. Medium weight.
    Uses: Women's suits and coats, and also in a lighter weight for dresses. Sportswear and riding habits for both men and women. Trousers and waistcoats for men.
  • Donegal
    Fibre: Wool - also in rayons and cottons.
    Weave: Mostly plain but some in twill.
    Characteristics: Originally a homespun woven by the peasants in Donegal, Ireland. A rough adn ready fabric that stands much hard wear. Yarns are coarse with thick slubs and coloured nubs. Now made in other places as well - particularly England.
    Uses: Coats, heavy suits, sportswear. Has a tailored, sporty look.
  • Duvetyn(e)
    Fibre: Good quality wool. If made in cotton, is usually called suede cloth.
    Weave: Satin, 7 or 8 shaft.
    Characteristics: Close weave, brushed, singed, and sheared to conceal the weave. Has a smooth plush appearance resembleing a compact velvet. Similar to wool broadcloth but heavier and thicker. Has a good draping quality, soft and wears well if looked after. Spots easily and care must be taken when handling it. Back is often slightly napped also. Name derived from the French word "duvet" meaning "down".
    Uses: Women's coats, suits, and dresses, depending on the weight. Used a great deal in the millinery trade.
  • Eponge (Souffle)
    Fibre: Wool, also rayon and silk.
    Weave: any weave - usually a novelty - plain warp, novelty filling or reverse.
    Characteristics: Derived from the French term eponge for "spongy". Very soft and spongelike in a variety of novelty effects with loose weave of about 20 x 20. Also known as ratine in cotton. Rayon and silk is soft, loose, and spongy, something like terry cloth. Does not have surface loops. Many stores now call eponge "boucle".
    Uses: Suits, dresses, coats, sportswear, and summer suits.
  • Felt
    Fibre: Wool, reprocessed wool, reused wool, scrap fibre, can be mixed with other fibres, cotton, rayon.
    Weave: Not woven but felted.
    Characteristics: A very compact fabric in various weights and thicknesses. Has grain so can be cut any way. Needs no hemming or finishing, because it does not fray. Uses: Many industrial uses, such as: piano hammers and in the printing industry. Many novelties, such as: pennants, slippers, lining of many kinds, insoles, and toys. Hats and felt skirts.
  • Flannel
    Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, rayon.
    Wool Flannel
    Weave: Usually twill, some plain.
    Characteristics: Originated in Wales. Soft, with a napped surface that partially cancels the weave. Dull finish. Made in a variety of weights. More loosely woven than worsted flannel with a higher nap and bulkier hand. Shrinks if not pre-shrunk. Sags with wear, unless underlined. Does not shine or hold a crease. Watch pressing - if pressed too hard, it flattens in the nap. Comes in many colours, weights, and fancy effects. Sometimes has a prickly feel when worn.
    Uses: Blazers, dresses, skirts, suits and coats. Boys suits, jackets, and shirts. Shirts and sportswear.

    Worsted Flannel
    Weave: Twill
    Characteristics: Made in a variety of weights. More closely woven and harder than wool flannel. Can have a very slight nap on one side. tailors very well. Presses well and holds a hard crease.
    Uses: Men's suits, jacksets and trousers. Women's coats, suits, skirts, and tailored dresses.

  • Fleece
    Fibre: Wool specialty hair fibres, cotton.
    Weave: Plain, twill, pile or knitted.
    Characteristics: Has a deep, soft nap or pile, obtained by heavily napping with wire brushes or with a pile weave. This provides air space giving good insulating properties without too much weight. The interlacings are will covered by the nap. The nap wears out in time, but good quality cloth gives good wear. Range from cheap to expensive clothes. Material is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore it may be difficult to manipulate. Also, the name for the entire coat of wool taken from a sheep at shearing time.
    Uses: Mostly used for coats for men, women, and children.
  • Gabardine
    Fibre: Worsted cotton, rayon, or mixtures.
    Weave: Steep twill (63 degrees).
    Characteristics: Clear finish, tightly woven, firm, durable, rather lustrous. Can be given a dull finish. Has single diagonal lines on the face, raised twill. Wears extremely well. Also comes in various weights. Inclined to shine with wear. Hard to press properly.
    Uses: Men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts.
  • Homespun
    Fibre: Wool.
    Weave: Plain.
    Characteristics: Coarse, rugged yarn is used. Originally an undyed woolen cloth spun into yarn and woven in the home, by peasants and country folk the world over. Has a substantial appearance and serviceable qualities. Made with irregular, slightly twisted uneven yarns. Has a spongy feel with a hand-loomed tweedy appearance. Geniune homespun is produced in a very limited quantity and much powerloom cloth is sold as genuine homespun. Many qualities made - the best is an ideal rough-and-ready type of cloth.
    Uses: Coats, suits, seperates, and sportswear.
  • Hopsacking
    Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, linen, rayon, silk, hem, jute.
    Weave: Basket. In wool adn worsted 2 x 2 basket usually or novelty basket to resemble hopsack cloth.
    Characteristics: Made with coarse yarn. Has a rather rough texture and quite durable. Often quite bulky but various weights.
    Uses: Men's and women's sportswear, coats, suits, draperies. If fine, used for dresses.
  • Jersey
    Wool Jersey
    Fibre: Wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics.
    Weave: Knitted on circular, flat-bed or warp knitted methods (later popular as a tricot-knit).
    Characteristics: Right side has lenghtwise ribs (wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastec with good draping qualities. Has special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very well and if washable, it washes very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you sew.
    Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, suits, underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.

    • Doubleknit
    Fibre: Cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics
    Weave: Circular or flat-needle bar type
    Characteristics: A two faced cloth, either face may be utilized as the rigth side. The fabric originated in Milan and Florence. Can be stabilized for shrinkage control and dry cleans satisfactorily.

  • Kersey
    Fibre: Wool - poor quality, can also be made of re-used or remanufactured wool.
    Weave: Double cloth.
    Characteristics: Medium to heavy weight, similar to melton and beaver. Well fulled in the finishing with a rather lustrous nap caused by the use of lustrous crossbred wools. Nap often has direction. Gives good wear and is dressy looking. Blues, browns and blacks are the most popular colours. Originatedd in Kersey, England in 11th century. Very similar to beaver but it is fulled more, has a shorter nap and a much higher lustre.
    Uses: Men's overcoating, uniforms, women's coats, and skirts.
  • Mackinaw
    Fibre: Wool. Ordinary grade of wool and often has shoddy re-used or remanufactured wool mixed in. Sometimes a cotton warp is used.
    Weave: Twill or double cloth. Weave is concealed.
    Characteristics: Very heavily fulled or felted and napped on both sides to conceal the weave. Much of the fabric is in a plaid or large check design or brightly coloured, or different colours on each side. Heavy and thick, very similar to melton. Named for MacKinac Island, Michigan. Also called ski cloth or snow cloth.
    Uses: Miners, lumbermen, hunters, trappers, fishermen, and cowboys use much of the fabric for jackets, mackinaws and coats. Also used for blankets, shirts, and some heavy sportswear, windbreakers.
  • Melton
    Fibre: Wool, sometimes combined with synthetics.
    Weave: Twill or satin weave.
    Characteristics: Thick well fulled or felted wool with a smooth surface. Napped and very closely sheared. Coarse meltons are similar to makinaws but made of finer yarns and finished with a smoother, more lustrous surface - used for "under collar cloth" in lighter weights. Very solid cloth due to the finishing processes that completely conceal the weave. It wears very well. Wind resistant. if made in tan or buff colour in a coarse quality, it is called "Box cloth". It is classed with kersey, beaver, and broadcloth. Originated in Melton, Mowbray, England, which is a fox hunting report in england. It was first made as a hunting cloth. Looks like wool felt - pressed flat.
    Uses: Mostly used for men in overcoating, uniform cloth of all kinds (army, navy, etc., as well as polie and firemen), pea jackets, regal liverly. Used for heavy outer sports garments and coats for women.
  • Mohair
    Fibre: From the angora goat. Some has cotton warp and mohair filling (sometimes called brilliantine). Imitation mohair made from wool or a blend.
    Weave: Plain or twill or knitted.
    Characteristics: Angora goat is one of the oldest animals known to man. It is 2 1/2 times as strong as wool. Goats are raised in S.Africa, Western Asia, turkey, and neighbouring countries. Some are in the U.S.A. Fabric is smooth, glossy, and wiry. Has long wavy hair. Also made in a pile fabric of cut and uncut loops similar to frieze with a cotton and wool back and mohair pattern. - Similar to alpaca.
    Uses: Linings, pile fabrics, suitings, upholstery fabrics, braids, dress materials, felt hats, and sweaters.
  • Monk's Cloth
    Fibre: Wool, cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or synthetics.
    Weave: 4 x 4 basket weave.
    Characteristics: Quite heavy, due to construction. It is difficult to sew and manipulate as the yarns have a tendency to slide, stretch and fray. May sag in time depending on the compactness of the weave. It can also be made in other basket weaves. Quite rough in texture.
    Uses: Draperies, all types of upholstery and house furnishings. Also used for coats and suits for women and sports coats for men.
  • Pin Check, Pinhead, Pick and Pick
    Fibre: Worsted, also made in cotton and rayon.
    Weave: Twill.
    Characteristics: A minute check effect caused by a combination of weave and colour. It has the appearnce of tiny white dots appeating in rows, vertically, and horizontally. Holds a sharp crease, tailors and wears exceptionally well. In time, it is inclined to shine with wear.
    Uses: Men's suits, women's tailored suits and skirts. In cotton, it usually has a white dot on a blue ground and it is used for work clothes.
  • Repp or Rep
    Fibre: Wool, worsted, silk, rayon, wool ottoman, cotton or a blend.
    Weave: Crosswise rib.
    Characteristics: Has a pronounced narrow cylindrical rib in the filling direction - less distinct than bengaline; more distinct than poplin. Sometimes a very distinct rib is alternated with a small rib. It is similar to poplin but heavier in cotton. Can be dyed, printed, or white. Frays badly. Difficult to press (may flatten rib).
    Uses: Heavy suits, and coats for men's and boy's wear, and also for some women. Also used for upholstery and drapery.
  • Serge
    Fibre: Worsted - also unfinished worsted, wool, cotton, silk, rayon, and synthetics.
    Weave: A very distinct twill (2 up/2 down) which shows on both sides of the fabric.
    Characteristics: On the face, the distinct diagonal runs from the lower left to the upper right - piece dyed. Has a smooth, hard finish that wears exceptionally well but will shine with use. The shine cannot ne removed permanently. It is a good cloth in tailoring as it drapes and clings very well. Made in various weights. Unfinished worsted and wool are not quite as clear on the surface. French Sere is made of very fine soft yarns and has a very fine twill. It is used for dresses or very soft suits.
    Uses: Coats, suits and sportswear.
  • Sharkskin
    Fibre: Worsted. Some wool. Also made in rayons and synthetics (particularly Arnel) but they are quite different.
    Weave: 2 x 2 twill weave (1 white, 1 black up and same down).
    Characteristics: The yarns in both the warp and filling are alternately white (or very light yarns) and coloured. The combination of weave and colour results in coloured lines running diagonally to the left opposite to the twill lines in a "step" effect. Has a very sleek, smooth, feel and appearance. Although it is fairly lightin weight, it has a very substantial feel. Gives excellent wear and sheds dirt readily. Has many variations.
    Uses: Used for men's and women's suits, lightweight coats and sportswear.
  • Shetland
    Fibre: Wool from Shetland sheep in Scotland. Sheep have a coarse outer coat and a very fine undercoat which gives added warmth. The best is the undergrowth. It is not shorn but pulled out by hand in the spring. Other wools sometimes called shetland if they have a similar appearance.
    Weave: Twill, plain, or knitted.
    Characteristics: Has a very soft hand and a shaggey finish of protruding fibres. - a pulled wool; the soft undergrowth of the shetland sheep. Very lightweight and warm. Much is made by hand and comes in distinctive soft colouring. Often the natural colours ranging from off-white, various greys to almost black and brown are used and not dyed. Real Shetland wools are expensive, high quality products. - In the same family group as homespun, tweed and cheviot.
    Uses: Coats, suits, and sportswear for both men and women. Fine shetlands are made into fine shawls, underwearm crochet, work and hosiery.
  • Suede
    Fibre: Wool, cotton, rayon, synthetics and blends.
    Weave: Plain, twill, or knitted.
    Characteristics: Napped on one side to resemble suede leather. Short, close nap gives a soft, smooth hand. When made in cotton, it resembles duvetyne, but heavier.
    Uses: Cleaning cloths, gloves, linings, sports coats.
  • Tricotine
    Fibre: Worsted, wool, rayon, blends with synthetics.
    Weave: 63 twill, left to right (double).
    Characteristics: Has a double twill rib on the face of the cloth. Has a very clear finish. It drapes well, and tailors easily. Medium in weight. Has exceptional wearing qualities. Very much like cavalry twill, but finer. In the same family as whipcords, coverts, and gabardines.
    Uses: Men's and women's suits and coats. It is also used for ski slacks in a stretch fabric.
  • Tropical Worsteds
    Fibre: 100% worsted. If just called tropical, it can be made up in any fibre or blends of wool and a synthetic.
    Weave: Plain and rather open weaves.
    Characteristics: The yarns are very tightly twisted adn woven to permit a free circulation of air. It is lightweight ad is ideal for summer and tropical wear. It has a clear finish. Wears and tailors very well.
    Uses: Both men's and women's suits and coats.
  • Tweed
    Fibre: Wool, also cotton, rayon, silk, linen, and synthetics.
    Weave: Twill, novelty variations, or plain.
    Characteristics: It is the Scotch name for twill and originated along the banks of the Tweed river, which separates England from Scotland. Sometimes known as "tweel". Sistercloth of homespun cheviot and shetland. They are the same in texture, yarn, weight, feel, and use. Originally only made from different coloured stock-dyed fibres, producing various colour effects. There are a wide range of rough surfaced, sturdy fabrics. There are also some closely woven smoother, softer yarn fabrics, and many monotone tweeds. May also be plaid, checked, striped, or other patterns. Does not hold a crease very well.
    Uses: Wide range of suits, coats, and sportswear for men, women and children. Lighter weight, used for dresses.

    • Harris Tweed
    All are hand woven on the islands off the Northern coast of Scotland (outer Hebrides). There are two types of Harris Tweed:
    1) Fabric woven from hand-spun yarn.
    2) Fabric woven from machine-spun yarn.
    Now very few are woven from hand spun yarns as it takes too much time and labor. It is always stamped to that effect in addition to the label which any Harris Tweed always bears. Much is woven in 27" and 28" widths, but also in 54". When damp, it smells mossy and smokey.

  • Venetian
    Fibre: Worsted, wool worsted and wool, cotton.
    Weave: 5 shaft satin, some in small repeat twill weaves, in cotton, 8 shaft satin (warp face). 2 ply warp and single filling.
    Characteristics: Clear finish. Has a very good lustre finish which resembles satin. Some has a slight nap. Wears well - similar cloth has worsted warp and woolen filling.
    Uses: In a good quality used for expensive suits for women and sports jackets for men. Also used for fine coatings for both men and women. In cotton, it resembles very heavy sateen and is used mostly for lining.
  • Viyella
    Fibre: A blend of 55% wool and 45% cotton.
    Weave: Twill.
    Characteristics: Has the appearance of very fine flannel. It is soft, fine, and warm. Holds a good pleat. Washable by machine. If made up in a slim skirt for women, should be underlined, as it has not much body.
    Uses: Excellent for all kinds of children's and baby's wear, sportswear, men's and women's tailored shirts and dresses.
  • Whipcord
    Fibre: Worsted or woolen, also cotton and rayon.
    Weave: Twill
    Characteristics: Very much like gabardine, but the yarn is bulkier and much more pronounced. The twill is steep 63 degrees and goes from left to right (except for cotton). It is very durable, rugged and stands hard usage and wear. In time, it shines a bit with wear. Some times back is napped for warmth. So named because it stimulates the lash of a whip.
    Uses: Topcoats, uniform cloths, suitings, sportswear, riding habits. In cotton, it is also used for automobile seat covers and little boys play suits.
  • Zibeline
    Fibre: Wool from cross-bred yarns.
    Weave: Satin.
    Characteristics: The fabric is napped then steamed and pressed. The nap is long and lies in one direction. It is very lustrous and sleek. It may or may not be given a soft finish and feel. It is usually strong colored and sometimes stripings (removal of color) is noted in the cloth. Named for the "zibeline" a small animal found in Siberia. It belongs to the sable family and has fine black fur.
    Uses: Coats, cloaks, capes and winter suits for women.


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Haren Textiles Pvt. Ltd.
Western Express Highway, Before Toll Naka,Dahisar (E), Bombay-400068 India.
Ph: 91-22-28966764/4390/1894/5804 Fax: 91-22-28965707
Email: harentextiles@vsnl.com

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